Roaring Through My Twenties

If you haven’t already, go read Part 1 of my adventures in Goa and North India.

I have so many photos from this trip that didn’t make it in these posts, go check out my Photo Gallery to see more!

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Jack of All Trades  

The day following our first long, long day exploring Jaipur city was just as busy and exciting. I don’t think we would have wanted it any other way!

Up first on our “Day two” itinerary: a cooking class. This was such a good idea because: 1) I think there are a few people who expect me to come back to the USA with the ability to make some sort of Indian dish and 2) sharing food is sharing culture and stories – it’s one of the best ways to get to know the local people.

We were lucky to do the class with just the three of us, so the pressure to perfectly chop, slice, stir, etc. wasn’t so intense. We were certainly in awe of the husband and wife chef-duo who balanced each other out quite nicely. While one directed us which veggie to chop or how much oil to pour the other described the significance behind each ingredient. 

By the end of the class, we successfully made: masala chai, an aubergine and potato dish, paneer masala, dal, and chapati (Hannah and I aren’t even very fond of paneer, but the fresh paneer they provided for this dish was so good). As we were cooking up these dishes, the chefs kept saying to us “you’ll have to eat everything you make!”, which sent us into a slight panic. And as we tried our hardest to eat our plates clean, we struggled. Forced to tap out after nearly falling over from full-ness, Chef admitted in all the years they’ve taught the class that only one person has ever finished all the dishes they’ve made (apparently it was an American…not a surprise!).

Me and Hannah making chapati

Me, Carly, and Hannah with our completed dishes

Still very, very full from our lunch, we had to get going to make it to our next adventure of the day: a block printing workshop. All over India, but especially Rajasthan, block printing has been a practiced artform for nearly 500 years. It is quite beautiful.

We did our workshop at a company called Creatis. It’s a very unique studio space where, from what I understand, you can take a workshop class with a master artist (like we did) or you can hire a designer to help you bring your ideas to life. Very cool!

Working with our block printing master, Kunj, we were able to pick our own block design and ink colors. As someone who lacks an artistic eye and is a bit impatient, I chose a simple design concept. Carly and Hannah on the other hand, chose designs that were a bit more complex and required more precision. Somehow I still ended up being the last to finish… 

Carly and her print design

Master artist Kunj and the owner of the company, Mohit, were great. Kunj was especially patient with us and I think found us to be a little funny. 

I have to tell this side story because it so perfectly summarizes just how small the world is and how meaningful these interactions can be sometimes: 

Mohit is from India, but he studied and worked for several years in the USA. He didn’t actually share this information with us when we told him where we were from, but there was one very specific tell that blew his cover.

Carly: “What kind of ink is used on the fabric?” 

Mohit: “Any ink would work. You could get it from Michael’s Craft Store.” 

He could tell from the long pause and shooting stares at each other that we were seriously questioning if Michael’s Craft Store had gone international because that’s so totally not a thing here. He finally confessed the information that he lived in Boston for many years (he’s actually a BU alum, heyyy small world isn’t it!?) 

Although our second day in Jaipur wasn’t as physically engaging as the first day, it was just as (if not more) stimulating and interesting. Learning by doing the craft and learning it by local masters is such a fun way to understand culture both from the past and in the present! 

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On the Road Again 

Day three marked the beginning of a very exciting excursion: Agra, Uttar Pradesh. Yes, where the Taj Mahal is! 

We traveled to Agra by car. On our way, we stopped to see two different “must-see” attractions. 

Chand Baori and Harshat Mata Temple 

Chand Baori, or “moon well”, is the oldest and deepest step well in the world. While in both Jaipur and Agra, we did see several of these kinds of wells. This structure was used a ton to provide the surrounding areas with a dependable water source. The way it is crafted is so impressive. 

Carly, Hannah, and I at Chand Baori

Across from Chand Baori was Harshat Mata Temple. This was constructed in 800 AD. It was beautifully ancient. Though while we were there a procession was taking place and many people were gathered around praying and doing rituals. We didn’t want to disturb them, so we didn’t stay long.

Up until this point in our trip, we didn’t utilize any tour guides to see any specific monument or attraction. All three of us felt confident in our ability to navigate these places on our own. But, on our way to the next destination before reaching Agra, our driver kept insisting we hire a tour guide. He was genuinely worried and wouldn’t let it go until we promised him we would get a guide (at that point, we actually still had no intention to get a guide, we just told him we would so he’d stop asking us). 

It wasn’t until we arrived at this location did we understand our drivers’ insistence on a tour guide. Totally needed one. Thankfully, because Hannah knew a girl who knew a guy, we were able to easily and quickly secure a trusted guide to take us around. 

Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri was built by Mughal Emperor Akbar in the second half of the 16th century. It was only the capital for about a decade and soon after Akbar’s death, the city was abandoned because of water shortages. 

Its abandonment doesn’t make Fatephur Sikri anything less than formidable. Emperor Akbar, apparently, was a very religiously tolerant man. When he established the city, he made certain to construct three separate palaces for his three favorite wives (he had many more in addition): one Hindu, one Muslim, and one Christian. The Jodhabi Palace, constructed for his Hindu wife, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The entire place was intensely beautiful. Our last-minute-hired guide, Lucky, did the best job ever describing all its history to us.  And even took the best photos! 

Carly, Hannah, and I (taken by our tour guide Lucky!)

Me and Hannah

A long car ride later, we arrived in Agra. We had big plans ahead of us, so we turned in early for the night. 

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A Wonder of the World 

Day four: our alarms went off at 5am. For what? The Taj Mahal. 

In all the travel blogs you’ll read about tips for seeing the Taj Mahal, they all write that it’s best to visit right as the gates open at sunrise. After doing it myself, I can say I 1000% agree. 

Just around 6am, we were let through the gates and had our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. 

Previous to this trip, I had had a lot of conversations with people here in India about my intentions to see the Taj. A lot of people would just respond with genuine shock. They could not believe that it was something I wanted to do. I couldn’t understand that reaction and it made me worried that I would feel disappointed after seeing it. But even after visiting, I still cannot fathom this response. 

Not to sound dramatic, but the Taj Mahal is one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen. Maybe it’s because I’ve waited so long to see it. Or it’s possible I’m just in awe of its creation story. Nonetheless, it was so worth it.

First look at the Taj Mahal just as the sun is rising

Me and another view of the Taj

The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648 AD. It’s a mausoleum created in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal (some articles describe the two as “soulmates” or “inseparable companions”…come on, that’s so sweet). 

After the Taj Mahal’s completion, Emperor Shah Jahan wanted to build an all black marble Taj Mahal opposite of the one that stands today (imagine that contrast). Unfortunately, he was never able to do so. Shah Jahan’s son, Aurangzeb, had gone to war against him (for several reasons) and imprisoned him in Agra Fort until his death. Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal lay to rest next to each other inside the Taj Mahal. 

After about an hour and a half exploring this monument, we decided to return to our accommodation for a quick rest and breakfast. Just in time too. As we were leaving, it began to rain. 

Me and Hannah, slightly damp and cold

After our rest, we set out for the day to see what else Agra has to offer.

Agra Fort 

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Agra Red Fort was the main residence of the rulers of the Mughal dynasty. This sandstone structure sits on about 94 acres of land. This is actually where Shah Jahan spent his time during imprisonment (many myths write that from his room, he could view the Taj Mahal. Shah Jahan would stare longingly out of the window thinking of his wife…). 

Carly and Me inside Agra Fort (if you zoom in, you can see the Taj Mahal the window!)

Baby Taj (Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah) 

Known as “Baby Taj”, this attraction is a Mughal mausoleum. The history of this gets a little confusing to me, but it was commissioned by Nur Jahan (who was the wife of a guy named Jahangir, the fourth Mughal Emperor) for her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg. This guy was actually also the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal!

Me, Carly, and Hannah at Baby Taj

Sheroes Hangout Cafe

This Cafe in Agra was created by the Chhanv Foundation and is run by women who are survivors of acid attacks. The aim of the cafe is to empower these survivors while bringing awareness to the prevalence of acid attacks. We had lunch and met some of the women who had stories to share with us. 

Metab Bagh 

Also known as “Moonlight Garden”, Metab Bagh sits perfectly opposite the Yamuna River, across  from the Taj Mahal. Actually, if Shah Jahan was successful in constructing his black marble Taj Mahal, it would be here. After a long day, it was nice to relax here and view the Taj surrounded by nature. 

Hannah and Me at Metab Bagh

Agra is quite small, actually. Despite all its fascinating history, there was one huge flaw we found: the monkeys. I’m not even kidding. We had way too many close calls with the monkeys in this city. And they’re huge. (We did see a lot of monkeys in Jaipur, but we had a very specific instance in Agra that really put us off the monkeys. We were in fear of them for the rest of the trip).

One full day in Agra is the perfect amount of time, in my opinion. There isn’t much more to see outside of what I’ve listed. 

On the morning of day five, we began our journey back to Jaipur.

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Tiny Sandwiches, Rooftops, and Goodbyes 

Since we didn’t make any stops on the drive back from Agra, we arrived back in Jaipur in the early afternoon. Perfect amount of time to do some street shopping!

The street markets in Jaipur are extensive. Johari Bazaar, the main market, is known best for its jewelry. But you can get anything from shoes, tops, dresses, trinkets, etc. Markets are the classic “Indian” experience in my opinion. All chaos and always tons of fun. By the end of this trip, we really became expert hagglers. 

Some of my favorite moments of this trip were always our dinner and drink plans. The food we ate never disappointed us. More importantly, we’d talk and talk and talk well into the nighttime about all the nonsense we had gotten up to that day. A must-do for a Girl’s Trip like this one. 

Day six, our last and final day in North India together, came too quickly. We decided to take the morning to relax on our accommodation’s rooftop hangout (beautiful view of the city!) and soak in all the sunshine. 

In the late afternoon, we headed to Rambagh Palace for High Tea. Rambagh Palace was the former residence of the Maharaja (King) of Jaipur. In its early days, the site was used for various purposes. In 1931, Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II declared it his principal residence and added a number of royal suites. Today, Rambagh Palace is owned and operated by Taj Hotels (a five-star hotel chain). Yes, that’s right. It’s a hotel now. You can imagine why we wanted to have High Tea here. 

Eating tiny sandwiches, yummy sweets, and drinking way too much masala chai, we chatted and laughed a little bit too loud for such a fancy place. 

Hannah and I in our High Tea outfits (you can tell we just got done crying from laughing so hard…)

And so, on our very last night in Jaipur, we did what we do best: Eat. Drink. Play Uno with strangers on a rooftop bar until we were kicked out. 

The next morning, Carly and Hannah had to begin their journey back to New York. This was a devastating goodbye for me. I don’t think I realized how much I missed my people until they were here and then gone again. Hannah and Carly, you are the best people on Earth. I miss you.

After their departure, I was scheduled to stay in Jaipur for a couple more days to attend the South and Central Asia Fulbright Conference and present my research. I was happy to still be in Jaipur and reunited with some Fulbright friends who I haven’t seen in quite a few months. 

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I’ve been lucky to visit quite a few places throughout India these last couple of months. Each place I visit truly leaves me in awe. I’ve yet to feel disappointed by anything I’ve seen. I will never quite have all the words to describe it. But it certainly makes me feel grateful.

Disclaimer: This blog is not an official site of the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.  The views expressed on this site are entirely those of its author and do not represent the views of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State, or any of its partner organizations.